Why the rebate instead of the 0% financing offer? As we mentioned in an earlier blog post, The Myth of 0% Financing, you save more money when you take the rebate because it's the final cost of the vehicle that's important, not the finance rate.
Let's look at this example. You want to purchase a 2009 Chrysler Sebring. You are trading in a 1993 Toyota 4Runner. You can either take the $4,500 rebate from Chrysler and get a great low 5.50& auto loan from your credit union or you can take the 0% financing. Which is better?
Total savings from financing at your credit union vs. the 0% loan: $1,708.
Here's how they both break down:
Credit Union Financing
- Loan Term: 72 months
- Loan Rate: 5.50%
- Vehicle Price: $25,000
- Chrysler Rebate: $4,500
- Cash for Clunkers Rebate: $4,500
- Loan Amount: $16,000
- Monthly Payment: $261
- Total Amount Paid: $18,792
0% Financing
- Loan Term: 72 months
- Loan Rate: 0%
- Vehicle Price: $25,000
- Chrysler Rebate: $0
- Cash for Clunkers Rebate: $4,500
- Loan Amount: $20,500
- Monthly Payment: $285
- Total Amount Paid: $20,500
Remember, financing only affects the interest you'll pay on your vehicle loan. Rebates reduce the total price of the vehicle. So, if you qualify and take the 0% loan, you'll pay more than if you took the 5.50% and $4,500 in rebates. Why? Because the total cost of the vehicle is more without the rebates. Bottom line: the total amount you'll pay for the car is what's important, not the finance rate.
Do your homework and be sure to stop by your credit union and get pre-approved for your vehicle loan before you head to the dealership. Be ready to negotiate and walk out with the vehicle, rebates and loan payment you want.
Hint: Credit Union Financing + Manufacturer Rebates = Your Best Financing Option!
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